The pear is a bit of an underappreciated treasure about fruit notes in perfumes.
However, the scent of a pear fragrance is just as delicious and refreshing as any other fruit scent.
Whereas citrus notes, such as those from mandarin orange and lemon, are a quick way to convey zest and a dazzling aspect, the pear is a sweeter and overall more subdued fruit.
Although it is not as widely employed in perfumery, the diversity of the pear’s smell is one of its main advantages. The pear note might have a fleshy, green, crisp, or juicy scent, depending on the variety of pear fruit used and the aspect of the fruit highlighted in a particular fragrance.
Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is the master perfumer behind Louis Vuitton’s exclusive luxury scents. Ambrette seeds and a synthetic component known as ‘cascalone’ are used in the company’s newest fragrance, Cur Battant (French for heartbeat), highlighting the pear note. To the perfumer’s knowledge, the fragrance is primarily inspired by the sensation of voluptuousness that one gets while biting into a delicious piece of citrus fruit. When it comes to the scent, the top note is a fantastic, crisp rendition of the pear, which is accentuated by the magnificent, musky aroma of ambrette seeds. As the perfume develops on the skin, the cascalone molecule leaves behind a fresh and slightly aquatic note that stays on the skin. The final composition is a bright, woody floral with other notes such as Egyptian jasmine and narcissus and a chypré (a perfume group) base consisting solely of pure patchouli and moss. The lightness of the pear helps to balance out the more sensual notes in the composition.
English Pear & Freesia
With its release in 2010, Jo Malone London’s English Pear & Freesia cologne was one of the perfumes that helped spark a renewed interest in pear-based smells, and it continues to be one of the brand’s hallmarks scents today. Perfumer Christine Nagel (the current in-house perfumer for Hermès) produced English Pear & Freesia, which means “English Pear and Freesia.” Based on the King William pear as its primary constituent, this harmony lends the smell of its rich, juicy notes. Featuring floral notes of white freesia, the perfume is further mellowed by base notes of amber, patchouli, and wood, which prevent it from becoming overly sweet and ensure that it leaves a longer-lasting trail behind them. It has a lovely aroma that is not excessively sweet, and it is reminiscent of ripened pears waiting to be plucked from the branch when sprayed on the skin.
Scandal à Paris
Using a soft pear and a trademark honey note, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Scandal à Paris takes the fruit and gives it a more gourmand spin. In addition to the original Eau de Parfum, there is also a more intense night version of the fragrance, produced by famed perfumers Fabrice Pellegrin and Daphné Bugey, who also designed the original Eau de Parfum.
With a gourmand honey note at first, designer Gaultier describes the smell as “quite seductive,” but “soon it becomes very feminine and fresh, thanks to the combination of jasmine and fresh pears.” According to him, Gaultier’s fragrance memories are sparked by flashbacks to his childhood. My approach to scent has always been quite a gourmand, bringing back childhood memories or simply a fondness for a specific meal, such as the Baba au Rhum that I used to enjoy with my grandmother. There is a significant amount of honey in the Scandal perfumes, which gives this smell a “gourmand” aspect, according to the perfumer.”
Petite Chérie Eau de Parfum
A celebration of the pear note in fragrance would be incomplete without a nod to Annick Goutal’s famous Petite Chérie Eau de Parfum, launched in 1997. In a limited edition, green-tinted flacon, this scent features an embellished floral patch created by English embroidery artist Ellie Mac; the fragrance is available for purchase. Thanks to a blend of pear, juicy peach, and musky rose, the fragrance itself is almost intoxicatingly sweet on the initial application; but, as it dries down, it transforms into a more quietly energizing perfume. Citrus notes of freshly cut grass and velvety vanilla help balance out this fragrance’s sweetness, making it the ideal choice for people who enjoy a lively, youthful aroma that will have others leaning in for a closer sniff.