The late Italian designer Fiamma Ferragamo, daughter of Salvatore Ferragamo, was often seen in her characteristic unfussy clothes, paired with Vara pumps. They were created by her in 1978 and remain the most iconic shoe of the Salvatore Ferragamo brand. As vice president, Fiamma was deeply involved in design and developing the brand during a time when her contemporaries were designing women’s shoes with pencil-thin, uncomfortable high heels that kept women in a perpetual “en pointe” stance. High heels were also flamboyantly bejewelled, studded, and pointed sharply at the toe. By contrast, the Vara pump’s rounded closed-toe box, chunky block heel, and grosgrain ribbon fastened by metal hardware conveyed a far more understated image. Like its creator, the shoe has remained untouched by the sway of fashion trends, with an aesthetic that has proven to stand the test of time.
For the Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer ’20 collection, creative director Paul Andrew draws on the spirit of Fiamma Ferragamo with the Viva pump — a reimagination of the Vara, with a longer vamp, pointier toe and the distinct ribbon now worked in leather. Retaining the signature low-heeled silhouette, the Viva is still delicate, like a pair of ballet flats, celebrating the legacy of a revered female designer.
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