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At Dsquared2 – It's The Mood For Surplus

By Kames Narayanan

 
Dsquared2
 

While most designers do not veer far off from the familiar, the Caten brothers are wild cards who redefine the Dsquared2 girl with each passing season. Here, we dissect the key themes from the label’s spring/summer ’17 collection:

 

Dsquared2
 

More is More

Not ones to shy away from the excess, Dean and Dan Caten tipped their hat to the in-your-face glamour of the 80’s. The first look, a pairing of leopard printed, leg of mutton sleeves and Swarovski embellished rip denim jeans, set the tone for the collection. Riffing off on an identical more is more aesthetic, the following looks, similarly called for attention in a mélange of vivid prints, clashing colours exaggerated shoulders and Victorian-esque embroidery. The accessories also followed suit in an overdose of layered ribbons and chunky costume jewellery.

Dsquared2
 

The Unifier

While the inspiration for the collection ran the mill from the opulence of a bygone era to streetwear sensibility of today, leg of mutton sleeves – characterised by a voluminous gathering at the shoulder that tappers off – were a recurring silhouette. Be it the season’s bodysuits, minidresses or denim vest, they all found common ground in the same exaggerated shoulders.

Dsquared2
 

Visual Appeal

Beyond turning to a medley of leopard, tiger prints or mod stripes – at times presented altogether at once ­– the Caten twins brought their collection to live with pops of ruffle in luxurious silk. When not worn as a full-on miniskirt, the ruched fabric broke up the monotony of uncomplicated silhouettes.

Dsquared2
 

Victorian Vindication

Revisiting the nostalgia of the Victorian era, the collection took its notes from the women of the past. Embroidery that sit center on translucent bodices and cropped jackets, alongside the recurring leg of mutton sleeves, recall the regal stature of the women from the 1890s. But with the women of today in mind, the historic references were made relevant again worn with current style acid-washed denim and leg-baring miniskirts. 

 

Dsquared2 spring/summer 2017 collection is available here.


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